Independently Bottled French Malts
French spirits aren’t entirely foreign to me. I am familiar enough with the various brandies and have enjoyed some Armagnac and Cognac. French malts on the other hand though, I am completely in the dark. The MaltRunners crew, including myself, were invited to chat with La Maison du Whisky’s Whisky Product Manager, Marion Attardi. It was an absolute pleasure. I learned so much about French whiskies and the diversity within the over 100+ distilleries producing whisky now within the country.
Check out LM&V’s website to learn more about these three releases. I found the French malt history on the Version Française website particularly interesting. Be warned, it is a rabbit hole as you dive into the various distillery histories!
These samples were provided free of charge without expectation or input over the content of my review. All tasting notes and opinions are my own. This is not a sponsored post. You can read my full statement of Ethics & Transparency at this link.
Armorik 2014 Version Française
Distillery: Distillerie Warenghem.
Region: Lannion, Brittany, France.
ABV: 50%.
Age: 7 Years.
Cask type: Second Fill Oloroso.
Color: 1.2 Chesnut. Natural Color. No chill filtration.
Tasting Notes
Tasted neat in a Glencairn with 15+ minutes of rest. These tasting notes are only my first impressions leading to my purchasing decisions.
Nose: Puffed barley cereal, lightly sweetened with honey. Peaty and herbal with a straightforward rosemary aroma. Oaky vanillins, earthy pecan shortbread, and a tropical leaning candied pineapple note round out the nose.
Palate: Industrial and earthy flavors as that peat comes through with intensity. Honeysuckle, brine, and a touch of lemon acidity. Machine grease, copper, and iron. Lastly, a smoked salmon salinity and savory merge and bring a unique seaside character.
Finish: Campfire and charcoal embers. More of the mineral and metallic notes with calcium, slate, and cast iron. Imagine yourself cooking over an open fire. Delicate citrus and acidic vegetable notes like unripe fleshy peaches and tomatoes. Pleasant smoky tobacco finish.
Overall
I found myself quite enjoying this dram. I confess, there’s a fair bit of overlap with some Scotch counterparts. Peated whisky lovers will certainly enjoy this one and I find the character similar to a Ledaig or Glen Scotia.
Pass or Buy?: Try before you Buy.
Artesia 2018 Version Française
Distillery: T.O.S. Distillerie.
Region: Hauts-de-France, France.
ABV: 50%.
Age: 3 Years.
Cask type: Ex-Bourbon.
Color: 1.2 Chesnut. Natural Color. No chill filtration.
Tasting Notes
Tasted neat in a Glencairn with 15+ minutes of rest. These tasting notes are only my first impressions leading to my purchasing decisions.
Nose: Fruity and oaky. Nectarines, white peaches, and fresh apricots. Vanilla and a touch of caramelized brown sugars bring out those oak qualities. The youth is evident with an alcohol forward nose that took a fair bit of resting to coax out other aromas.
Palate: Sweet grilled peaches and sugar-coated cereals. It’s grain forward but not in the youthful nature the nose would lead you to believe. Floral, woody perfume. Peppercorn, cardamom, and fennel seed. Metallic with copper and tin notes. Mineral water like in a spritz or highball cocktail.
Finish: Dry, fruity oak. Applewood, floral blossom, and dry white wines. A decent finish length and a pleasant oaky body. For 50% this is easy sipping.
Overall
Likely the least favorite of the bunch as I found it to be a bit too plain. Even with the low peat ppm, the depth added wasn’t much of a complexity boost for me. I liked where this was headed and will check back with T.O.S. in the future for sure.
Pass or Buy?: Pass.
Ninkasi 2017 Version Française
Distillery: Ninkasi Fabriques.
Region: Tarare, Rhône-Alpes, France.
ABV: 46%.
Age: 4 Years.
Cask type: Cognac.
Color: 1.2 Chesnut. Natural Color. No chill filtration.
Tasting Notes
Tasted neat in a Glencairn with 15+ minutes of rest. These tasting notes are only my first impressions leading to my purchasing decisions.
Nose: Tart and fruity. Blackberry, cranberry, and pomegranate molasses. Distinct grenadine notes on the nose. Honeydew melon and some dried pineapple emerge with a touch of water. Floral perfume or potpourri with an herbal, almost menthol lean to it. Paraffin or paste wax. Malty but ambiguous cereals.
Palate: Waxy and medicinal. Bitter lager with more of those grassy and almost a peppery hop-like flavor. Fermented wine esters and Plum wine. Dark winter honey and mead. The cereals are more evident on the palate than the nose. Shredded wheat, healthy oats, and granola. More of those waxy flavors and textures with some iodine or antiseptic adjacent flavors.
Finish: Woodsy and dank. Leaning into a beer wort or wine must during fermentation. Bitter citrus pith, lime leaf, and juniper berries. Dried cherries and apricot jam. Lastly, some more beeswax chapstick and crystalized honey characteristics.
Overall
Quite easily my favorite with such bright fruit notes thanks to the cognac cask. Texturally, also the winner of the bunch with a viscous waxy character that I love to find in malts. For something to be this complex at only 4 years, I’m excited to try more from Ninkasi.
Pass or Buy?: Buy.